Crepe flowers basic techniques

Stretching crepe paper

Crepe paper’s unique quality is its stretch, and is why it’s so popular among paper flower making enthusiasts. The stretch varies depending on the weight and type of crepe paper being used.

Often, before 180g or 140g heavy weight crepe is cut into petals (or leaves), is stretched out a little. This makes the crepe less textural, easier to achieve neater edges and just generally a bit easier to work with. The trick is to stretch it out just enough to make it smoother, but not enough for it to lose its unique stretch ability. As it is gently being stretched, there is a tension, which if the crepe is stretched past this point is when it will lose much of its stretch.

Cutting petals

As a general rule petals are cut with the grain on the crepe paper running vertically from the top of the petal to the base. This means the petals are rigid and sculptural, as the vertical grain gives it the stability. When cut across the grain, the grain running from one side of the petal to the other it will not hold its shape.

There are two main ways to cut petals. The first is to cut around a template, and if cut out carefully will give you a set of uniform petals. The template will either have vertical lines (1), or a double ended arrow line (2), these indicate the direction of grain, these lines need to be aligned with the direction of grain on the crepe paper. I tend to cut a strip of crepe slightly taller than the petal template and concertina the strip four or five times and with the template on top, cutting around it, saving me time of cutting each petal out individually (3).

The other method is to cut freehand. Cut a strip of crepe, then divide this up equally into several rectangular pieces, fold in half along the grain and then cut out the shape of half a petal, this should result in a symmetrical shaped petal. Each petal will be slightly different in shape. I use this method when cutting very small petals, as cutting around a small template can be fiddly (4).

Basic paper shaping techniques

Most petals require some shaping if a realistic look is to be achieved. It is good to experiment by stretching, cupping, curling different crepe papers to see what can be achieved and what the limitations are for each type of crepe paper.

Cupping petals

Using both hands, place thumbs and forefingers and/or middle fingers on either side of the petal, with the thumbs facing each other, gently pull your hands away from each other (1). This should create a ‘cupped’ shape. The more the petal is stretched, the larger the petal and wider and shallower the cup (2).

Curling petals

To curl petals, the best way is to use something rounded and thin such as pencil (1), 16 or 18 gauge wire (2), a skewer (3), cocktail stick (4) or even the end of a paint brush (5). The bigger the circumference of the implement being used, the looser the curl (6). I usually favour a wooden skewer.

For an outwards curl hold the petal between thumb and forefinger of left hand, with the skewer (or whatever implement being used) in the other hand, place the skewer underneath the petal making sure it is close to the top of the petal, then using the forefinger of the right hand place on top of the skewer making sure the top of the petal is firmly sandwiched in between, then gently roll the skewer backwards. This should create a curl. Depending on the curl required, I may start on the top right side and work round to the left side, or start at the top middle (7).

For a curl rolling inwards, position the skewer in front the petal and roll it forwards.

Fringing

A commonly used technique to create flower centres, stamens and sometimes petals. Strips of crepe are cut multiple times, on one side creating a fringe effect. The closer together the cuts are made the finer the fringe (1).

The individual fronds can be twisted to create a coarser more textured centre (2).

Cutting the bottom half of the fringe strip diagonally or cutting away triangular notches can help to reduce a bulky centre (3).

There are lots of fringing techniques which I will address in another entry, as they are quite detailed and really do deserve a journal entry of their own!

Stem wrapping

An important element in achieving a finished look for your floral masterpiece, as well a way to attach centres and petals to stems, adding side stems without using glue, or adding some reinforcement to glued centres and petals and side stems.

I prefer to use thin strips of 180g crepe stretched out fully, which I spread with white glue and then on the diagonal wrap the stem. I find that using 5mm strip for really thin and delicate stems works well, and using 10mm for the rest (1).

The main advantage for using crepe paper to wrap the stems is it can be matched to the other foliage being used, and it can be tinted with pastels, paint, ink etc to achieve naturalist effects. However it can get messy, the colour in the crepe can run and the glue dries very quickly, so on longer strips, frequent reapplication of glue is required (2).

Floristry tape can also be used, ideal for the beginner, it is waterproof (though I have not personally tested this). It does need to be stretched a little before application which helps it stick. I use this when attaching the individual flower components together without glue or to help reinforce a join (3).